Mt. Aconcagua (6962m)

Climb the highest peak in South America!

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Difficulty

Difficult

Altitude

6962 Metres

Duration

20 Days

Location

Months

January, February, December

Stay

Camping

Climb South America's highest peak!

Mount Aconcagua Climb Overview:

Located on the border between Argentina and Chile, Mount Aconcagua is the highest peak in both North and South America. At 6,962 meters, it is the highest mountain outside the Himalayas and is the second-highest mountain among the 7 Seven Summits. The expedition starts from the beautiful city of Mendoza in Argentina and follows an 18-day itinerary.

Its name translates from the Quechua word “Akon-Kahuak,” which means Stone Sentinel, and the mountain lives up to this reputation as it towers over the heart of the Andes. The surrounding lowlands rise to 4,000 meters and provide beautiful desert landscapes with a diversity of flora and fauna.

Mount Aconcagua has two routes, the normal route and the Polish Traverse. The “Normal Route” is the most climbed route on Aconcagua. This route has a more direct ascent with shorter distances and times between camps, three to four hours as compared to five to seven hours on the Polish Traverse Route. During the climb, we spend eight of sixteen nights on the mountain in the comfort of our well-equipped Base Camps at Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas.

Our acclimatization process includes a summit attempt of Mt. Bonete (launched from Plaza de Mulas Base Camp), which takes climbers above 5,000 meters. The combination of high-quality Base Camps, porter support, more time to acclimatize, and pre-trip climb of Mt. Bonete gives climbers an excellent chance of reaching the summit.

Mount Aconcagua falls in between Elbrus and Denali when it comes to technical requirements, but has its own set of challenges. As Aconcagua is close to 7000m in altitude, its major challenge lies in its altitude. To better your chances of climbing, you would need to incorporate acclimatization hikes.

What is the best time to climb Mount Aconcagua?

The best season to climb Mount Aconcagua is the Summer months in the Southern Hemisphere which typically run between November to March. From our experience of leading the Aconcagua expeditions from India, we recommend the period of December to January months as it offers the most favorable weather conditions on the mountain.

Weather conditions on Mount Aconcagua Climb

Other than the altitude reaching close to 7000 meters, Mount Aconcagua presents varied climatic conditions and extreme temperatures throughout the challenging and physically demanding journey from the base camp to the summit. As you climb higher, expect the temperatures to plummet drastically. While the day time temperatures at the Plaza De Mulas Base Camp can be mild, the temperature at Mount Aconcagua Summit could be brutally cold and go as low as -30 °C to -35 °C. The wind chill factor particularly during the morning and evening hours adds even more challenge to the expedition. Be mentally and physically prepared to tackle extreme cold temperatures, occasional snowfall/rainfall, high winds, whiteouts and low visibility.

Read to know more: Mount Aconcagua: The New Frontier for Indian Adventure Climbers

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Brief Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrival at MENDOZA (760m)
Day 2 - Drive to PENITENTES (2,725m)
Day 3 - Journey to CONFLUENCIA (3,300m)
Day 4 - Acclimatization trek to PLAZA FRANCIA
Day 5 - Trek to PLAZA DE MULAS/ Aconcagua Base Camp (4,260m)
Day 6 - Aconcagua Base Camp
Day 7 - Acclimatization climb to MT. BONETE (5,100m)
Day 8 - Load carry to CAMP 1 “CANADA” (4,910m)
Day 9 - Aconcagua Base Camp
Day 10 - Trek and stay at CAMP 1
Day 11 - CAMP 1 to CAMP 2 “NIDO DE CÓNDORES” (5,250m)
Day 12 - Rest at CAMP 2
Day 13 - Load Carry to CAMP 3 “CÓLERA” (6,000m)
Day 14 - Climb to CAMP 3 “CÓLERA”
Day 15 - SUMMIT (6,962m)
Day 16 - CAMP 3 to Base Camp
Day 17 - PLAZA DE MULAS to MENDOZA
Day 18 - Buffer Day
Day 19 - Buffer Day
Day 20 - Fly Out

Inclusions & Exclusions

Trip Cost Includes:

A qualified and experienced Mountain Guide.
Transport to and from the airport and to and from the trailhead.
Two (02) nights accommodation in a 3* hotel in Mendoza City (Double Occupancy), Breakfast included.
One (01) night accommodation in Los Penitentes: breakfast & dinner included. (Double Occupancy).
Permit to enter the provincial Park Aconcagua.
Personal Porters for the higher camps with 10kgs allowance.
Mules and Porters to carry personal equipment.
Fully equipped dining rooms, kitchen in Confluencia & Base Camp.
WC tents in Confluencia, Base Camp and High Camps.
Accommodation in mountain tents or dormitory domes (when possible and if there is availability) during your stay inside the Park.
All meals included on the mountain.
Regular Porter service to specifically carry base tents, group's trash and personal waste on high camps (01 Porter to carry up to 20kgs for the whole group)
Drinking water and showers at base camp

Trip Cost DOES NOT Include:

Personal equipment asked on the Required Equipment list.
Rescue costs or other costs due to the abandonment of the expedition.
Personal expenses
Tips to the mountain guides and porters.
Extra nights in a hotel in case of early return to the city/ in cases you don’t use the “spare days” and decide to come back to Mendoza.
Travel, Medical insurance, and Extreme Sports insurance that covers Helicopter evacuation & rescue inside the park.
Meals and Drinks not specified in the itinerary. E.g.: Lunches and Dinners in Mendoza or at Uspallata. Drinks at the included dinner in Los Penitentes.
Any other service not exclusively specified as "SERVICES INCLUDED" in the previous column.

Things to carry

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Climbing Aconcagua will require good quality trekking gear and various technical climbing equipment. In case you are not able to procure any such equipment, we at Adventure-Pulse would be happy to help you procure them.

Apparel

Thermal Inners - At least 1 pair of Top and Leggings
6-8 t-shirts or long-sleeve shirt (cotton / dryfit)
2-3 pairs of trekking pants (no denim!)
1 Sweater/Sweatshirt
1 Fleece Jacket
1 Down Jacket
1 Waterproof Layer like raincoat or wind-cheater
1 pair of hiking boots
1 pair of comfortable sandals/floaters/sneakers
6-8 pairs of cotton socks (for day)
2 pairs of thick/woollen socks (for night)
Gloves - liner and outer
Sun hat
Woollen cap
Buff

Accessories

Duffel bag / Rucksack (60L+)
Daypack / Backpack (20-30L capacity)
Sleeping bag (can be bought or rented in Kathmandu)
2x 1L Bottles (to carry drinking water)
Lunchbox
Torch + Batteries / Headlamp
Knee/Ankle/Wrist Guards
Trekking Poles
Sunblock
Sunglasses
Moisturiser
Hand Sanitiser
Personal Medical Kit
Personal Toiletries Kit
Snacks!

Climbing Equipment (will be used on Mt Aconcagua)

Mountaineering Boots
Thick Mountaineering mittens or gloves
Gaters
Climbing Helmet
Ice Axe
Crampons
Ski goggles
Mountaineering Harness
Jumar or Ascender
4 Locking Carabineers
Dyneema Sling / Daisy Chain/ 6 metres of cord 8mm
Belay Devices such as figure-8, ATC or Gri-Gri
2 Non-locking carabineers
5mm cord for Prusik Knot
Pee bottle

Fitness

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TECHNICAL QUALIFICATION & FITNESS

Mt Aconcagua is not an easy peak and is only for climbers with sufficient climbing and mountaineering experience. You should not attempt this peak if you have not climbed above 6000mtrs (such as Island Peak), have prior altitude-related acclimatization problems or have not completed a basic mountaineering course. Mt. Aconcagua is a semi-technical peak for climbers who wish to challenge themselves. A climber must also be familiar with the use of technical equipment such as a jumar, ice axe and crampons among others. Climbers should be proficient with Ascending and Rappelling techniques. Climbing a mountain such as Aconcagua requires mental and physical discipline as we are going to stay at high-altitudes and would be required to ferry loads between camps.

You would be required to have a very high fitness level and have the necessary skills to climb. We recommend training for Mt. Aconcagua 4 months in advance. The two verticals of training required are:

PHYSICAL FITNESS:

As the climb is technical and would require you to climb at altitudes as high as 7000m, it is imperative that you possess a high fitness level. High levels of cardiovascular training is required and you would be required to spend at least 10 hours per week working on the physical fitness. Long-distance running, swimming and/or cycling would be suitable. You should also be comfortable carrying close to 20 kgs on your back for sustained periods of time. We would be happy to assist you in drafting a fitness schedule for preparing your body.

Our recommended tips for training for the climber, especially on Aconcagua are as follows:-

Focus on overall training rather than aesthetics.

There isn’t just one specific body part or muscle group you have to exercise to successfully train for climbing. Climbing takes a lot of overall strength and uses several muscle groups.

Cardio Vascular Training – Running, cycling and swimming form excellent cardio exercises. These are important, as you’ll be climbing over an extended period of time in rarified atmosphere. Your heart and lungs have to be already conditioned for extensive cardio exercise.
Legs – The Legs are the most used aspect of the body while climbing. Exercises can include squats, calf, and leg raises or lunges.
Core Muscle Development – Carrying large weight, and prolonged climbing at an inclined gradient puts tremendous strain on the body. It’s also important to work the core muscle groups in the body. When your mountain climbing, you’ll be using all of your muscle groups to facilitate the complex movements across varying terrain.
Train Outdoors - Its critically important to incorporate varied terrains rather than just the controlled environment of the Gym. Trekking and Hiking along trails are excellent in bridging this gap. Walking on uneven surfaces, steep gradients and varied terrain, help build muscle memory. Long treks, with exposure to the elements, help condition the body to adapt to changing environments. Ideally train with a heavy backpack, allowing you to try simulating the conditions as close as possible thus facilitating the development of endurance.

We recommend outdoor activities such as road or trail running, mountain bike riding, swimming or skiing. All of these activities are fun and help break the monotony of the gym routine.

CLIMBING AND NECESSARY SKILLS:

You would need to have previous climbing experience to be a part of the Mt Aconcagua climb. These would be in the form of previous high altitude treks, mountaineering courses and previous rock climbing experience. Climbs such as Lobuche or Island Peak are also recommended. These can obviously be accrued over a period of time. We would also recommend practising climbing and using the technical equipment regularly at your local crag or rock climbing wall.

FAQs

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1

Arrival in Mendoza (760m)

As you arrive at the city of Mendoza, the start point of your Aconcagua Climb, our Adventure-Pulse representatives will meet you at the airport and usher you to your hotel where you can spend the day and recover from the jet lag of your tiring flights. We’ll also conduct a concise orientation/team briefing in the evening. Mendoza is also the location where you can buy or rent any remaining gear for the climb.

Day 2

Drive to Penitentes (2725m)

Once we register with Aconcagua Provincial Park, we start our drive to Penitentes to start our acclimatization. Upon reaching, we will check in to our hotel at the base of the mountain and get prepped for the trek towards Aconcagua Base Camp.

Day 3

Journey to Confluencia (3,300m)

After a hearty breakfast, we will journey to the start point of our Aconcagua climb by trekking 3 hours to Confluencia Camp (3,300 m). After we reach our campsite, you can take some time to rest & recover and we will then journey to the beautiful rock formations around the camp. The plan is to spend two nights in Confluencia for acclimatization!

Day 4

Acclimatization trek to Plaza Francia (4000m)

Acclimating well is very important while attempting to summit Mt. Aconcagua. Today we trek to Plaza Francia, where we’ll grab some lunch and marvel at the spectacular South Face of Aconcagua. The South Face of Aconcagua is known for its great ascents, where the world’s best climbers come to test their skills. After exploring the area, we descend back to our campsite for the night.

Day 5

Trek to Plaza De Mulas a.k.a Aconcagua Base Camp (4,260m)

Today, a seven hour trek takes us to Plaza De Mulas, which is our base camp for the climb. The trek follows the Horcones River and then climbs up along its majestic glacier. Once we reach our home for the next couple of weeks, you can relax with some hot food and drinks and contact home by using the Wi-Fi service available here.

Day 6

Aconcagua Base Camp

Today’s day is spent resting and acclimatizing at base camp while we prepare for our next acclimatization trek which begins next morning.

Day 7

Acclimatization climb to Mt. Bonete (5,100m)

One of our favourite days, as we begin our journey to climb Mt Bonete whose summit lies at 5,100m. From the top there are great views of Aconcagua and the surrounding Andes mountains. Mt Bonete is close to the height of Everest Base Camp and is good acclimatization for the climb ahead. At nearly 7000m, Mt. Aconcagua is the highest peak outside the Himalayas.

Day 8

Load Ferry to Camp 1 (a.k.a CANADA) at 4,910m

Today, we will start our journey up to Camp 1 or Camp Canada. This serves a dual purpose, it acts as an acclimatization trek as well as a load ferry to shift vital gear up the mountain. This walk begins through a field with tall pinnacles of ice ranging from 2-5 ft, and then follows switchbacks that lead us steadily up to Camp 1. Once we reach the campsite, we will stow away our gear here and make our journey back to Base Camp, following the maxim of ‘Climb High, Sleep Low’.

Day 9

Aconcagua Base Camp

Today’s day is spent resting and acclimatizing at base camp.

Day 10

Trek & Stay at Camp 1 (CANADA)

This morning we will move to Camp 1 marking the beginning of our summit push. The trek itself is about 3-4 hours and once we reach Camp 1 we will establish the campsite.

Day 11

Camp 1 to Camp 2 (NIDO DE CÓNDORES) at 5,250m

Today we move up from Camp 1 to Camp 2 a.k.a Nido de Cóndores. We’ll be spending 3 nights here for rest and acclimatization. The trek to Camp 2 is difficult as the altitude starts to fully kick in.

Day 12

Rest at Camp 2

Today is a rest day and a chance to further acclimatize and enjoy the comfort of camp 2. Resting gives us an opportunity to recharge our batteries and mentally prepare for the days ahead.

Day 13

Load Ferry to Camp 3 (CÓLERA) at 6,000m

Today we move our climbing gear to our High Camp, or “Camp Cólera.” At 6000m, the trek to Camp 3 is where every step is measured and takes considerable effort and time. After arriving and dropping off the necessary gear and equipment, we descend back to Camp 2.

Day 14

Climb up to CAMP 3 (CÓLERA)

Today, we climb up to Camp 3, “Cólera.” We will carry our personal equipment and any extra gear needed for the summit attempt. In the evening, the guides will check all the equipment that you will need to utilize. After an early dinner, we will try to get some sleep before the big day.

Day 15

Mt. Aconcagua Summit (6,962m)

An early start for the longest day which is our summit attempt. After a hot drink, the guides will go over the plan. The climb is gradual as we follow the trail for two hours until we reach a small A-frame hut called “Independencia.” From here we will traverse across the North Face of Aconcagua until we reach the Canaleta, a low-angle gully that leads us up towards the summit ridge.

As we ascend the Canaleta, we can look down on the surrounding mountains, which begin to drop away from as we go higher. A few hundred meters below the summit, the route traverses east and leads us directly the summit! A cross proudly stands on top to mark the summit of Aconcagua. After taking pictures, we descend back to Camp 3.

Day 16

Camp 3 to Base Camp

We spend the day descending to Aconcagua Base Camp.

Day 17

Plaza De Mulas to Mendoza

We descend to Horcones, the entrance to the Park, on the last trekking day of the Aconcagua Expedition and make our way back to civilization to Mendoza.

Day 18

Buffer/Reserve Day – In case of bad weather

Day 19

Buffer/Reserve Day – In case of bad weather

Day 20

Departure from Argentina

Having summited the highest mountain of the Americas, it’s time to bid adieu to the Andes and fly out with unforgettable memories!

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