High-altitude mountaineering demands flexibility. Weather, snow conditions, and team health dictate daily movement. During this phase, climbers establish higher camps through systematic load carries and acclimatization rotations.
Mount Nun typically involves three high camps above Base Camp:
The climb to Camp 1 involves steep rocky sections followed by glacier travel. A significant fixed rope section on steep ice is negotiated before reaching a vast snowfield where Camp 1 is established. The ascent from Base Camp usually takes 5–6 hours.
The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 becomes steeper and more sustained, often requiring prolonged front-point crampon technique on 60–70° sections. This is one of the more physically demanding stretches of the climb.
Camp 2 sits dramatically along a narrow ridge, offering expansive views across the surrounding snowfields and peaks.
- Camp 3 (6,400m) – Summit Camp
A shorter but high-altitude push leads to Camp 3. The terrain consists primarily of snow slopes and rolling glacial undulations. This camp serves as the launch point for the summit attempt.
The summit attempt begins around midnight to take advantage of firm snow conditions. The route typically accesses the west ridge, involving sustained 40–60° snow and ice climbing.
The final section requires careful movement over mixed terrain before the summit plateau is reached. The round trip from Camp 3 can take 14–16 hours depending on conditions.
After summiting, climbers descend back to Camp 3 and, conditions permitting, continue downward toward lower camps.
The descent from high camps to Base Camp is long and demanding. Although downhill, steep gradients and fatigue require careful movement. Expect 8–10 hours depending on camp position and snow conditions.