Lukla Airport- The Gateway to Khumbu valley

The Everest Base Camp Trek stands out as one of Nepal’s most iconic adventures—and for good reason! This journey leads you to the base of the tallest mountain on Earth, through landscapes that take your breath away. The gateway to this beautiful trek is small village called “Lukla”.When I signed up, excitement filled my heart, and I couldn’t wait to set foot on the trail and dive into this incredible adventure.

In this blog, I’ll walk you through everything that unfolded—and just how unexpected the experience turned out to be! Looking back now, I realize I got far more than I ever bargained for.

Reaching Kathmandu

I landed in Kathmandu on the 23rd of September, and since our trek wouldn’t begin before the 26th, I had plenty of time to relax and explore the surrounding neighborhoods.

We stayed in the Thamel district, a hotspot for trekkers and adventurers. It’s packed with some of the best stores for trekking and mountaineering gear—ranging from global brands like The North Face and Columbia to well-loved Nepali home-grown names like Sonam and OC.

But Thamel wasn’t just about gear. The area offered a full cultural immersion—authentic Nepalese food, warm and welcoming locals, spiritual landmarks like the Pashupatinath and Baudhnath temples, and a buzzing nightlife. I dove right in and ticked everything off my list! Those three days flew by, and it still felt like I had only scratched the surface.

But of course, the real reason I had come to this beautiful country was for the adventure—and I couldn’t wait to hit the trail.

Flying to Lukla Airport

On the morning of September 26th, as the sun rose, our team packed up and left for the airport. It was finally time to fly to Lukla airport and begin our trek on foot from the airstrip to Phakding!

Everything seemed to go smoothly during our first attempt to fly. We boarded a small charter plane with just 14 seats, and within ten minutes, we were in the air. I pressed my face to the window, completely mesmerized by the bed of clouds. The whites and blues danced together in the sky, and I smiled to myself, thinking how beautifully they romanced each other. A bit of turbulence kicked in, but nothing looked alarming outside.

Then came the announcement that caught me completely off guard. Just 15 minutes into the flight, the hostess informed us that bad weather had hit Lukla, and the pilot needed to turn the plane around. We couldn’t go any further.

We landed back in Kathmandu and walked from the plane to the waiting area. I couldn’t stop laughing—this was a first for me. All those conversations, the documentaries, and the YouTube clips about the “iconic Lukla landing” flashed through my mind. Still, things hadn’t gotten too bad yet, and I chose to stay optimistic.

I turned to my fellow trekkers and joked, “Taking U-turns on roads is so mainstream, right? Try one in the sky—then we’ll talk!”

The Adventure to reach Lukla had just begun –

We got back and rejoined the rest of our groups waiting at the airport. None of us had a choice—we simply had to wait and hope the weather would clear so we could fly again.

The airport was packed. Like us, many other trekking groups sat around, anxiously watching the skies and counting on a break in the clouds. One by one, announcements for flights to other destinations filled the air. Slowly, the crowd thinned. Only those of us bound for Everest Base Camp remained, clinging to hope.

After nearly six hours of waiting, we finally received an update about our Lukla flight—but it wasn’t the news we wanted. The flight was officially cancelled. The cloud cover had thickened, and there was no chance of landing at the airstrip. Defeated, we returned to our hotel in Thamel. All we could do now was pass time and wait for the next day.

With a full day ahead of us, we shifted into planning mode. We made endless calls, weighed different options, and even delivered a few motivational pep talks to keep spirits high. We ate, lounged, napped, shopped… anything to stay occupied. By evening, we turned in early and set alarms for 5 a.m., hoping to catch a flight the next morning.

Here’s something important to understand about how these airlines operate: if weather cancels your flight, your group doesn’t automatically get first priority the next day. Instead, flights go to those already booked for that day—which is fair. Only after they’ve all flown will the airline begin clearing the backlog.

That makes your odds pretty slim. The Lukla airstrip usually closes by 11 a.m. due to low visibility from cloud cover, so any delay narrows the window even more.

Still, we chose faith over fear—and geared up for another shot.

The return to Kathmandu and subsequent attempts

The moment we stepped into Kathmandu airport the next day, I truly realized what it felt like to be helpless. Still, we remained hopeful. We told ourselves the weather would clear up soon. But, in hindsight, we were naive to stay so optimistic.

The next day, history repeated itself. Another bad weather announcement left us deflated. The only difference? This time, we didn’t even get a chance to take a U-turn in the air—our flight never even took off. Over the next two days, we kept showing up at the airport, going through security checks, and waiting for hours. But each time, we ended up stuck in Kathmandu, never able to leave. Once again, we returned to our hotel, unsure of what to do next. The entire day passed as we glued ourselves to live YouTube updates, hoping for a change in the weather.

We couldn’t afford to keep wasting time hoping for a flight to Lukla. The alternative? Fly to a town called Phaplu, then trek four hours to Lukla, picking up our route from there. It didn’t seem like a difficult option and felt far more practical than sitting around waiting, especially since we were already behind schedule.

The next morning, we followed our routine and headed to the airport—this time to catch a flight to Phaplu. But once again, the weather decided to throw us a curveball. We got off the bus and stood next to our charter plane, ready to board. Before we could even step foot on the tarmac, the flight to Phaplu was canceled, with another bad weather announcement following soon after.

I’ll be honest—at that moment, I felt like I couldn’t swallow, the weight of it all hitting me. I wanted to break down and cry, but instead, I burst out laughing. It struck me how powerful nature can be—there was absolutely nothing we could do but accept it.

The Hattrick Failure

After three failed attempts to reach Lukla and with no choice but to give up on reaching our destination by air, we realized that the road was our only option. The flight to Phaplu would’ve made things much easier, but as they say, nothing comes easy—especially in the mountains!

So, we set off on a new plan: two extra days of driving and then a 12-13 hour trek to reach Phakding, which was supposed to be “Day 2” of our itinerary.

The Drive

When I say we drove for two days, I don’t mean we cruised along highways or expressways, or even regular narrow roads where you can enjoy lush green meadows and little streams flowing alongside.

What we drove through was a trekking route, riddled with uneven terrain, sharp turns, rocky surfaces, and crazy inclines. For 9 to 10 hours each day, we off-roaded, bouncing around non-stop for two full days.

At least six times during the drive, especially while passing through narrow inclines with a hill on one side and a deep valley on the other, I honestly felt like I was about to take my last breath. The vehicle swayed so much, I thought we’d flip over and tumble straight into the valley below.

The drivers were incredibly skilled, but the roads—if you can even call them roads—were horrendous. The past two days of rain had turned the trails into slippery, slush-filled nightmares.

To make matters worse, this was a last-minute scramble. Hundreds of trekkers had been stuck, all opting for the same route, which meant a shortage of vehicles. We only managed to get six Boleros for 33 people, and we had to cram ourselves in like sardines.

Off-roading on a route that barely qualifies as a road, constantly banging our heads on the roof, feeling motion sick at times, and spending hours with our knees bent at odd angles due to the lack of leg space, made those two days a real test of endurance. I couldn’t have been more thankful when we finally got off the vehicle.

At 1:30 a.m., we reached a little teahouse in Bupsa village, where we would spend the night before embarking on the 13-hour trek to Phakding the next morning. That trek, after everything we’d been through, honestly sounded like a breeze. It had been a long, tiring day, but we had no choice but to push our physical limits—we were already 4.5 days behind schedule.

Entering Phakding –

After reaching Phakding, we were finally back on track, at least in terms of the itinerary. Sure, we were incredibly late, but the trail felt familiar again, and I could finally soak in the feeling that Everest Base Camp would soon embrace us—whether sooner or later.

In those five days, so much had happened. I started wondering if we would even make it to Base Camp. There were talks of changing our plans and heading to Annapurna Base Camp instead. But the sheer majesty of Everest was enough to keep everyone from giving up. None of us could turn away from it.

As we continued trekking, we experienced both good and bad weather. Localized clouds can be unpredictable, and at times, the cloud cover kept us from getting the stunning mountain views we’d hoped for. But we also had plenty of bright, sunny days with clear weather windows, letting us admire the breathtaking views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Everest, and Mount Lhotse.

The team –

Amid all the chaos with weather delays, off-roading, and the unexpected twists, one thing remained constant: the professionalism and efficiency of Adventure Pulse! And honestly, that made all the difference in the world.

Being stuck in the mountains of another country can be incredibly overwhelming and downright terrifying. But their team was there for us every step of the way, ensuring we could even enjoy this part of the experience. They handled everything—last-minute bookings, transportation, constant calls, motivating us, and making sure we always had amazing food to savor. Without their patience and unwavering support, this journey would have turned into a complete nightmare.

Biggest Takeaway from this bitter-sweet experience –

I never imagined my first trek to Everest Base Camp would push me to the brink like this. From the trauma to the awe, I felt it all. From moments of helplessness and wanting to break down to tears in my eyes when I first saw the beauty of the Khumbu Icefall, this experience is difficult to put into words.

Now, when I look back and reflect on those memories, I realize that this is what adventure is truly about—what it means to be and live in the mountains. The mountains don’t answer to anyone but the weather. No matter how well you plan, how much you prepare, or how hard you push, if the weather says no, you stay put. Period.

It doesn’t matter how rich you are, how much money you’re willing to spend, or what kind of influence you have in politics or power. None of it matters when nature decides to show you who’s in charge.

The Everest Base Camp trek has been a humbling learning experience—one that makes you grounded. The higher you go in altitude, the more grounded you become. Up there, you quickly realize that so much can and can’t happen. You are bound to feel fearful and grateful at the same time. A tiny speck in the vastness of nature, powerless and modest, surrendering to nature’s mercy—that’s the only decision you truly get to make, not by choice, but by necessity.

But that feeling of surrender, of helplessness, is also the adrenaline that keeps drawing me back. I can’t wait to return to the mountains and let Mother Nature decide what comes next for me. This flight to Lukla will be etched in my memory forever.