Spontaneity Wins Out – Harishchandragad At Last!
Ever since I began hiking in the Sahyadris in 2015, Harishchandragad had been on top of my bucket list. Despite my best laid plans, for one reason or another, all my attempts at reaching the historic Konkankada kept falling through. It was not for a lack of trying but this iconic, sprawling fortress had eluded me for close to a decade.
Fast forward to New Years Eve 2024 and I was sat in a chilly corner of Pune with a few childhood friends who were in town for 10 days. A few of them shared my love for the Sahyadris. It was soon revealed that we’d all dreamt of visiting Harishchandragad and a spontaneous plan was cooked up on the spot.
The four of us would drive to Khireshwar, one of the few base villages of the fort, on the 3rd Jan 2025.
We of course had to budget a day to recover from the shenanigans that invariably accompany New Years night.
It was quite funny to me that after years and years of of conscious planning, this is how my first trek to Harishchandragad was about to unfold.
C’est la vie. Such is life.
New Year, New Trail – Harishchandragad from Khireshwar
Harishchandragad originally has 5-7 routes that lead to the top of the fort up. Each of varying difficulty and terrain. While some of these trails have not been walked on for years, there are three which are predominantly used today. The first begins from the village of Paachnai – the shortest and easiest. Then there’s the infamous one from Walhivale a.k.a ‘Nalichi Vaat’. Roughly translating to ‘the path through a narrow gully/gorge’, this route is not for the faint of heart. It steeply ascends up narrow section of rock and is classified as more of a rock climb-cum-scramble rather than a hike.
And finally, there’s the trail via Tolar Khind (khind stands for col or saddle) from the village of Khireshwar. This scenic 5-6 hour trail begins near the beautiful Pimpalgaon Joga Dam and traverses the entirety of the fort from East to West. Culminating at the legendary crescent shaped cliff face of Konkankada. This was the one we chose due to its relative proximity to Pune.
An early start meant we arrived at Khireshwar at 10.30 am and begin our trek at sharp 11.
The idea was to complete the trek by 4 pm so we could set up our tents and peacefully enjoy the sun dipping below the Konkan plains.
Here’s the four of us sending proof of life back home!
Despite being the middle of winter, the trek started with spotless blue skies and the sun shining down on us!
The forests of Khireshwar providing much needed respite from the heat!
The first 90 minutes of the trail till you reach Tolar Khind quietly snake up through dense jungle with occasional breaks in the foliage that provide some beautiful views.
Khireshwar Village, Pimpalgaon Joga Dam & Sindola Fort in the distance.
The phenomenon of ‘crown shyness’ (where the upper branches of adjacent trees tend not to touch) in full effect as the sun peeps through the branches!
The final stretch of the forest has some tiny openings akin to portals. Almost as if looking out of a window into the valley below.
It was only right to capture a few silhouettes here!
Crossing Tolar Khind – The Historically Significant Mountain Pass!
Emerging out, we arrived and crossed the famous saddle or mountain pass called Tolar Khind. In ancient times, it served as the boundary between the districts of Pune & Ahmednagar. Today, it marks the start of a rock patch which leads you out of the gully and onto the fort proper. Local villagers have also set up a small stall which serves locally beloved snacks! Nimbu Paani (sweet lemon water) & small slices of raw mango and pineapple are truly standouts!
Till a few years ago this patch had no protection in the form of railings and was a relatively risky section of the trek.
After having spent over 2 hours ascending, we stopped briefly to admire the views to our north and the south.
In the background you can spot the Kalsubai-Harishchandragad Wildlife Sanctuary.
From here, narrow switchbacks, with a few minutes of shade sprinkled in, took us of the top of the eastern edge of Harishchandragad!
All we encountered was dry shrubbery and an arid landscape, with green remnants of the monsoon, far and few between.
As you crest onto the the fort, a perfectly placed resting spot put up by the locals is the first sight you come across.
An apt location to quench your thirst, catch your breath and take in panoramas of Malshej Ghat & the huge expanse of the Pimpalgaon Joga Dam!
Traversing Harishchandragad – Jungles, Temples & Peaks!
As we got going again, the trail branched into two.
The one on the right – a distinctly flatter path that looped around dense jungle patches. Almost like walking along the boundary of Harishchandragad.
Although longer in distance, this route would be less exhausting and pretty straightforward.
Alternately, the one in front of us was simply a rollercoaster. One that jumped up and down the contours of this age old fortess.
It would takes us entirely through the forest, passing right under the ‘Balekilla’ (or citadel – generally the highest point of a Maratha fort).
We would then descend out of the trees onto a small plateau before yet again plunging into the woods, only to emerge near a sacred temple complex!
Years of planning to visit the fort finally paid off as the choice was an easy one to make.
You can guess which path we took!
The subtle dance of light amidst the forests of the Sahyadris!
After over an hour and a half we finally reached a few small shacks and stalls which the villagers of Paachnai had permanently set up a few minutes before the temple ahead.
This was also the point where the Khireshwar and Paachnai routes converged. Another pitstop. Another few glasses of nimbu-paani!
A few more steps and we finally arrived at the centuries old Harishchandreshwar Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple was intricately carved from black basalt. The cracks in the pillars are an ode to the supreme level of craftsmanship that has stood the test of time. Adjacent to the temple lies another holy landmark. A stone water tank houses a small lake known as Saptatirtha Pushkarni. Once believed to have medicinal properties, it once housed idols of Lord Vishnu which have now been moved to nearby caves that lie 100 meters away.
Before we embarked on the final leg of our journey to our destination for the night, we descended 2 mins further. This time to Kedareshwar Cave, right in the middle of which lies a Shivling.
The cave is magnificently carved right into the mountain and was at one time supported by 4 pillars around the Shivling. As you can see, three of those pillars no more exist. According to local mythology, the breaking of the fourth pillar will signify the imminent end of the world. The cave is steeped in spirituality and due to it’s location tucked away from the sun, temperatures are much cooler inside. In the monsoons, the cave fills up a third of the way from the bottom with rainwater.
The Cliff Beckons – The Mesmerizing Konkankada of Harishchandragad!
It was nearly 4:45 pm by the time we covered the last kilometer. We had finally arrived at the quite possibly the grandest sight in the Sahyadris.
The sheer immensity of the Konkankada cannot be overstated. It is one thing to see it in photos and videos but quite another experience all together when you actually witness it from the edge.
We spent the next half an hour in absolute awe. Walking along the cliff. Peering over the edge. Lying down and contemplating the ‘call of the void.’
That alien sensation when your brain seems to ask itself. What if? Well, standing at the edge of 2500-foot drop will do that to you.
The concave shape of the Konkankada and the famous overhang near the top. In the background you can also see the Rohidas peak.
Twilight was fast approaching and we soon identified a secluded spot right along the edge to pitch our tents.
Hilariously, one of the poles broke. A few minutes of patchy handiwork later, and we were golden. Much like the waning light of the sun.
In the meantime, the shining ball of fire was beginning to change shades and so was the scenery all around us!
Golden Hour – Dusk, Dawn and Everything in Between!
If you ever needed convincing to go for a trek, let me give you some reasons!
When someone tells you that magic exists in the world, believe them! For it does, in these very places. Miles away from home, in the quiet company of friends.
As the wind gently blows and the sun dips below the horizon. An unspoken peace. An inexplicable contentment. It is in these moments that the world comes alive.
As I look back on these images, I still smile. A smile I cannot explain. A feeling no amount of words can articulate.
Fleeting hues of orange, yellow and purple! Sunshine and moonlight in one frame.
Time truly stopped still. Or so it felt.
Dusk turned into nightfall and it was time for dinner! And I’m being honest, there aren’t many better feelings than sitting under a sky full of stars with a steaming hot bowl of pasta!
Somewhere between trying not to topple the stove into the tent and craning our necks upward to spot shooting stars, sleep came easy. And before we knew it, dawn was upon us, in absolutely glorious fashion!
Sunrise at Harishchandragad – A Chilly Winter Morning under Taramati Peak!
After the early start, the drive, the long trek and staying up well into the night – we were exhausted. We slept like babies and missed our pre-sunrise alarm by about 30 minutes. The plan had been to climb up to Taramati peak, which at 1431m/4700ft was the highest point of the fort. A 30-40 min ascent away from Konkankada, Taramati peak was located right above the temple complex from where there was an alternate route to its summit.
A quick stretch and several yawns later, we donned our jackets and got moving. We were still early but it was quite clear that if we started up towards Taramati then, we’d only arrive at the summit after the sun had risen. And so, we decided to walk along the Konkankada, all the way to the southern edge of the fort.
What an absolute blessing this turned out to be as we arrived at a completely secluded spot of the fort. Far away from the line of humans we’d scrambling their way up.
Towards the south-east of the fort lay the Pimpalgaon Joga Dam. It’s surface rippling. And the sky behind it beginning to slowly light up!
We were so high up that it was hard to believe that’s where we’d started out just a day prior. The vantage was sublime and the first rays of sunshine warmed our hearts!
As you can probably imagine, barely a few words were exchanged.
Our eyes were transfixed. First on the horizon. Then on the ridgelines far, far way.
This was the Sahyadris at its finest.
The last twelve hours were a perfect encapsulation of what I truly live for in the mountains.
The quiet moments of reflection. Of perspective. Of immense beauty. The kind that makes you gasp in awe!
Also, did I mention at any point that I love silhouettes 😌
Well, it must be quite evident by now! No better backdrop than the mountains, eh?
The Beginning of the End – The Inevitable Retracing of our Steps Back to Civilization
I’d waited a decade to experience the wonder of Harishchandragad – and oh boy, did it deliver. Beyond the realms of expectation.
We watched in silence as the almost tangible rays of the sun lit up Malshej Ghat and the Junnar region, home to forts like Jivdhan & Bhairavgad.
Right before our eyes, the Rohidas peak was bathed in prettiest tinge of gold. A lone sentinel as dawn seemingly broke around it!
A quick swivel and towards the north the Kumshet region came into view in the morning light. Famous forts and peaks, the likes of Ajoba, Katrabai and Ghanchakkar could be clearly seen on this fine winter day. Somewhere beyond, lay the stunning Bhandardara Dam and the rugged ranges, hidden in the folds of the Sahyadris!
As we begin walking back, the Konkankada came back into view. And with it, in the distance, almost invisible specks, were our tents.
Despite all the built up excitement over the years. All the times spent imagining what it would feel like when I finally got the chance to visit this surreal cliff.
The experience quite simply blew me away!
So, it was only fitting to snap a few parting portraits with a landscape that had left each of us completely speechless!
As I fondly reminisce on this trek, all I can think is this – better late than never!
