Climbing in Ladakh – The Adventure Hub
Ladakh is a dream destination for trekkers and bikers alike. Its name has become synonymous to adventure and exploration. However, this region is not just limited to trekking in the valley. Ladakh is home to stunning peaks that are part of every climbing enthusiast’s bucket list. A lot of mountaineers have Ladakh on their bucket list for various climbing expeditions like Kang Yatse 1, Kang Yatse 2, Mount Dzo Jongo, Mentok Kangri, Stok Kangri, Go-leb Kangri, and many others.
Ladakh is indeed the melting pot of climbers coming in from different countries and origins. For a lot trekking enthusiasts Ladakh offers an opportunity of transformation. For those aspiring climbers, looking for their very first mountaineering experience, climbing option in Ladakh have you covered. Climbers, whether beginners or experienced, who wish to climb 6000+ Meter peaks often find themselves exploring this adventure hub!
Introduction to the lessor known – Mount Dzo Jongo
Mount Dzo Jongo is a peak in the Markha region of Ladakh. Unlike other peaks in Ladakh like the Kang Yatse twins, Stok Kangri, Mentok Kangri etc. Mount Dzo Jongo is actually quite a hidden gem. Not many people are aware that a 6000+ meter peak like this one, lies on the same route as the other twins.
Similar to Kang Yatse twins, Mount Dzo Jongo also shares the same route that trekkers take on the Markha Valley Trek. Dzo Jongo is situated at an altitude 6280 M which is in fact higher than both Kang Yatse II and Stok Kangri. The climb to the summit of Mount Dzo Jongo is not technical and is far less challenging. However, its steep ascent and terrain does require use of ropes and crampons and excellent fitness levels.
If climbing mountains is a dream you have but don’t know where to start, Mount Dzo Jongo in Ladakh, can be the perfect beginning of your mountaineering journey.
In this blog we will cover all the information you need about climbing Mount Dzo Jongo in Ladakh.
Climb Facts
- Max Elevation – 6280 Meters | 20,603 feet
- Duration – 10 Days (including 1 buffer day and arrival – departure)
- Season – July to September
- Difficulty Level – Challenging
- Accommodation – Hotel and Camping
- Region – Ladakh, Markha Valley
Accessibility – Start and End Point
Mount Dzo Jongo originates in the Markha region. In fact, the popular Markha Valley trek and Mount Dzo Jongo pretty share the similar route and a lot of times, trekkers and climbers walk together until the climber’s head towards the Base camp of the mountain.
The starting point of Mount Dzo Jongo is the city of Leh. You arrive in Leh and rest on Day 1. As part of the mandatory acclimatization requirements, Day 2 will also be spent in Leh for rest and exploration.
We begin our foot journey towards the valley of Markha over the next 6 days, until we summit the peak. Our journey ends in a small village called Nimaling. From From Nimaling we trek to Chokdo and then drive to Leh to get back to civilization.
Itinerary Overview
- Day 01 – Arrival in Leh. (Overnight in Hotel)
- Day 02 – Rest and acclimatization. (Overnight in Hotel)
- Day 03 – Drive from Leh towards Markha, Trek for 3 hours and spend overnight in Markha.
- Day 04 – Trek from Markha to Thachungtse & Camp overnight.
- Day 05 – Thachungtse to Mount Dzo Jongo Base Camp and stay overnight.
- Day 06 – Base Camp Acclimatization and Training.
- Day 07 – Summit & back to Nimaling
- Day 08 – Buffer day in case of bad weather
- Day 09 – Nimaling to Chokdo via Kongmaru La pass & drive to Leh via Hemis Monastery.
- Day 10 – Fly out from Leh.
Season to climb
The best season months to climb Mount Dzo Jongo co-incides with the Markha Valley Trek. July, August and September are excellent months to attempt this climb.
During these months, the overall temperature in Ladakh is much more pleasant which helps trekkers and climbers to adapt to its environment better. As the infamous winters in Ladakh can be extremely harsh, climbing in Ladakh in winters is not only dangerous but also not for faint-hearted. Moreover, none of the climbing peaks are achievable in Ladakh during the winter season.
Thus, from July to September, the trail from Markha Valley all the way up to the Base Camp of Mount Dzo Jongo is an ideal time – frame to make your attempt.
Temperatures and expected weather
The temperatures from Day 1 Leh to Day 5 at Thachungtse are pleasant. The days can be warmer when the sun is out. And the temperatures can range anywhere between 15 to 25 degrees Celsius. In case of bad weather or higher flow of winds, the day time temperatures can drop down to 8 – 10 degrees as well and this can keep fluctuating depending on the day.
The night time temperatures can range anywhere between 5 to 8 degrees and but may feel much lessor around 2 – 4 degrees in case of high winds and even drizzles or rain. As you gain altitude, expect temperatures to fluctuate by 2 to 3 degrees every day.
At Mount Dzo Jongo Base camp which is at 5100 Meters the day time temperatures can be anywhere between 0 to 8 degrees Celsius and the night time temperatures will be in negative, anywhere between -5 to -10 degrees.
On the Summit of Mount Dzo Jongo, at 6280 meters, approximately 20,603 feet above sea level, the day time temperatures can range anywhere between 0 to – 10 degrees and the night time temperatures can be as low as -30 degrees.
The distance between the Base Camp to to the summit and back is around 14 kilometers. Given the distance to be covered, the summit push always starts at midnight from Base Camp, so that the teams be at the top, during early morning hours and trek back down safely before dark.
Moreover, the morning temperature on the summit is much more bearable and allows you time to celebrate your victory as well. However, depending on weather and wind-chill factor, the possibility of extremely low temperature on the summit during the day is also high. Hence it is important, you are physically and mentally prepared for extreme temperatures during your journey.
Terrain
The terrain through the trekking part of the journey starting from Markha to Thachungtse is a combination of dry rocks, grass meadows and sand dunes. You will also encounter river crossings on certain days to go to the other side of the valley.
As you go ahead towards the Base Camp the terrain becomes more arid and is comprised of lot of loose rocks. Towards the summit there are crevasses that are covered in snow, hence roping yourself is absolutely mandatory. The summit pretty much has moraine and loose rocks all around.
Communication channels on the climb?
Only postpaid network works in Ladakh. BSNL and Airtel sim-cards have the best network in the valley, at the Base camp and the end point of the trek. However, while on the trek, you will be pretty much disconnected from any communication to your friends or family. Hence it is advisable to inform them beforehand.
Please note – Given the rules and regulations by the Indian Army, any kind of satellite phones, pagers, walky-talky, drones, etc. are strictly prohibited in the valley.
Can a first timer attempt Mount Dzo Jongo
A first-time climber can definitely attempt Mount Dzo Jongo. If you are a trekker and wish to transition to climbing, Mount Dzo Jongo in Ladakh is a great choice. The Base Camp of Mount Dzo Jongo sits at an altitude of 5100 meters, while the summit towers at 6240 meters. Trekkers with experience in high-altitude trekking around 5000+ meters can consider climbing Mount Dzo Jongo. However, although this peak is beginner-friendly, climbing it requires excellent physical fitness.
Challenges on Mount Dzo Jongo
Though Mount Dzo Jongo is a climb that can be attempted by a first time climber with no prior technical or climbing experience, it is not a cakewalk. It is a challenging feat and requires lot of physical strength as well as mental determination. There are multiple challenges one can face while attempting to summit Mount Dzo Jongo.
- Weather window : It is of utmost importance that you have a clear weather window on the day of your summit to the peak of the mountain. The winds of Mount Dzo Jongo, if out of proportion on a given day can make or break your aspirations of climbing. Climbing or even attempting to climb the mountain during high velocity winds can prove to be dangerous and fatal and is best avoided.
- Acclimatisation : Ladakh, in general poses challenges to people when it comes to acclimatization due its dry and arid terrain. Considering that the Mount Dzo Jongo is at an altitude of more than 20,000 feet, it can make climbers fall prey to AMS due to lack of acclimatization and can impact your journey ahead.
- Technical challenges : Though climbing Mount Dzo Jongo is not super technical, it requires climbers to use certain types of climbing equipment like micro spikes, gaiters, ropes, carabineers, climbing helmets, snow glasses etc. all these equipment are necessary as some sections of the climb are steep and can lead to a slip or fall.
- First timers : For first time climbers, Mount Dzo Jongo can feel overwhelming. The transition from a trekker to a climber does not come easy and a lot of people can have a mental block as well. The high altitude, technical equipment, fatigue of the journey, rough terrain of the region, can all be factors that can scare first time climbers or beginners and deter them from continuing the journey.
Technicalities involved
Mount Dzo Jongo is a semi-technical climb that requires regular trekking all the way up to its Base Camp, starting from Markha to Thachungtse. From Thachungtse, trekkers make their way up to the Base Camp of the peak, situated at 5100 meters.
The summit stands at 6280 meters, which is a considerable gain in altitude. It involves steep inclines and snow-covered crevasses. Climbers must rope up when crossing the snow-covered crevasses. They typically wear climbing helmets and climbing shoes due to the snow and ice-filled surfaces.
Some sections of the climb require steep ascents and may also demand the use of crampons and ice axes. Even while descending, climbers need to use tied ropes and ice axes for support to descend safely down the steep terrain.
What kind of equipment is needed?
Along with your standard high-altitude trekking apparel and accessories, you will need additional climbing equipment for Mount Dzo Jongo, such as gaiters, crampons, micro spikes, climbing helmets, and ice axes. For a complete list of required equipment, please visit our website.
What level of physical and mental fitness is needed?
Climbing Mount Dzo Jongo in Ladakh is challenging and definitely not for the faint-hearted. You must be in excellent physical and mental condition to attempt the climb.
Climbers need to build endurance and stamina to summit this peak. Endurance will be especially useful during the summit push, as the journey starts at night and continues until the next afternoon, ranging anywhere between 12–15 hours, depending on weather and the pace of the group. Strong cardiovascular fitness and muscular strength will make your journey possible and comfortable.
Climbing Mount Dzo Jongo in Ladakh can feel overwhelming for first-time climbers. The transition from trekker to climber doesn’t come easily, and it’s common for first-timers to experience a mental block. Even climbers with some experience may feel mentally unprepared for the challenge. The high altitude, technical equipment, fatigue, and rough terrain can overwhelm anyone and might cause them to reconsider continuing the journey.
Prepping for Summit
On Mount Dzo Jongo, you will camp throughout your journey. Each day, your campsite will be packed up and moved as you ascend towards the Base Camp. The Base Camp, located at 5100 meters, will be your final campsite. At the Base Camp, we spend an extra day acclimatizing and practicing with our climbing equipment.
We introduce each climber to their climbing essentials, including shoes, harnesses, crampons, micro spikes, carabiners, ropes, snow glasses, and helmets, and teach them how to use each item. The team practices lining up, deciding the order of the rope line, coordinating with one another, and understanding each other’s pace of movement. Furthermore, the trek leader and guides address all queries on this day, along with the practice, to ensure climbers are physically and mentally prepared for summit day.
Chances of fatality
The chances of fatality on the mountain are very low. However, this depends on the safety and support provided by your trek operator and the experience of the guides involved. The weather on the mountain can turn very harsh and the wind can blow upto kilometers per hour which can lead to accidents.
If well prepared and well equipped and climbing with a known and reputed company, climbing Mount Dzo Jongo is among the safest climbing expeditions and hence an apt pick for the first timers.
Adventure Pulse Campsites:
As you land in Leh, you will spend your first night in a hotel. Day 2 will be in Leh as well for our mandatory acclimatization. Day 3 the team will drive to Markha, which is the start point of the climbing expedition. Our campsite will include:
- Sleeping Area: Comprising sleeping tents arranged for comfort.
- Dining Area: A dining tent with stools and tables for hot meals, lit by solar lights at night for a cozy atmosphere.
- Kitchen Area: Where our cook and helpers will prepare daily hot meals.
- Toilet Facilities: Set up at a distance from the dining and sleeping areas for convenience.
How Will I Sleep During the expedition?
While on the trek, you will stay in comfortable alpine dome-shaped tents. We at Adventure Pulse provide a 3-man tent for two people. If you wish to stay in a single tent, we can arrange that at an added cost. Each tent is lined with foam for insulation, topped with a sleeping mat and a thick sleeping bag to ensure you get a good night’s rest, ready for your next day of adventure. The sleeping bags used for our climbing expedition, protect you from temperatures of -15 to -20 degrees, ensuring that you are warm and comfortable in the harsh surroundings.
What About the Toilets?
As part of our services, we provide a toilet tent with a flushable loo. After the porters reach the next campsite, they will set up the loos away from running water. Each toilet tent will be equipped with sanitizing sprays, toilet paper, and waste packets.
What Will I Be Carrying While during the expedition?
For a list of items to carry on the trek, refer to our recommended checklist. Your personal bags will be loaded on mules, and you’ll carry a small daypack with essentials like a light jacket, windcheater/raincoat, water, and your packed lunch.
Meals served during the course of the climb
We at Adventure Pulse pride ourselves on the quality logistics we provide for our clients. Proper nutrition is key for enjoying the trek and staying healthy. Our diverse menu includes rice, roti, sabzi, different types of daal, and khichdi for packed lunches, along with options for hot breakfast and dinner.
Climbing with Adventure Pulse
Adventure Pulse, established in 2010, has had a 100% safety record on all trekking and climbing expeditions across, India, Africa, Russia, Bhutan and Nepal. Since the last 15 years our first and foremost consideration in all expeditions is the safety and security of our trekkers and climbers.
Each of our climbing groups will have a lead guide and numerous assistant guides. The guide’s responsibility is to keep you safe and ensure the group follows the right route at the right pace. These guides are climbers who have summited the mountain multiple times and are very well versed with the route as well as equipped with adequate safety equipment in case you need help.
Encountering bad weather in the mountains is inevitable, but your safety is still the paramount consideration for our team. We maintain a strict ratio of 3:1 during all our expeditions, meaning that each guide will be responsible for no more than 3 climbers, providing ample support and guidance to each. Moreover, an Everest Summiteer is part of all our climbing expeditions, which helps climbers not only in terms of expertise and guidance but also motivates them.
Parting thoughts
Climbing Mount Dzo Jongo in Ladakh offers an incredible adventure for those looking to challenge themselves with a high-altitude peak. Whether you’re transitioning from trekking to climbing or seeking a less technical introduction to mountaineering, this peak is a great choice. With its stunning terrain and striking landscapes, Ladakh offers opportunity for adventure while providing a transformative experience.
However, the journey to the summit demands physical preparation, mental strength, and an understanding of the challenges posed by the harsh environment. By climbing Mount Dzo Jongo in Ladakh, you not only achieve a personal milestone but also gain a deeper appreciation for the spirit of adventure. With the right preparation and guidance, this climb can be a memorable and rewarding experience.
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