
Winter Climbing in Ladakh – An Experience Like No Other!
From January 22nd to 28th, 2025, I had the chance to embark on an amazing journey. It was one that challenged my body, deepened my love for the mountains, and left me with memories as sharp as the cold air in Leh. The Winter Climbing Workshop with Adventure Pulse in Leh wasn’t just a climbing course, it was a journey into the heart of trekking and adventure.
Flying into Leh – A Winter Wonderland!
It all began on my trek of EBC, where Samir gave me the idea to enter this course. I was intrigued, and decided to do it. So, on the 22nd of January, I found myself flying from Pune to Leh. The aircraft cut through clouds, and as we descended toward Leh, the view opened up in the most dramatic way. Jagged, snow-capped peaks spreading endlessly beneath us till the horizon, bathed in soft morning light. The descent into Leh was nothing short of cinematic. It is hard to understand what a “mountainous area” feels like until you see those vast ranges rising steeply all around you in every direction.
When we landed, the cold hit me immediately, though it was not as sharp as I had expected. We were driven to a comfortable hotel in the town of Leh. It was warm inside, with cozy, wooden interiors, heaters, and a calm vibe. My roommate was Dhruva, a nice guy who looked to be around 28. We introduced ourselves, unpacked, and started getting to know each other.
Before the briefing session, I met Vineeth, a tall man probably in his mid-40s. He was from Hong Kong, was really tall, and was just as keen to explore Leh as me. Together, we took a stroll through the quiet streets of Leh Market. The shops were mostly shut, for in the mountains the world sleeps early. It was serene despite the winter lull. Prayer flags swayed in the cool breeze, the birds chirped, and our boots crunched the snow on the stone-paved streets.
Meeting the Team – The Journey Begins!
That evening, we had our briefing session at the girls’ hotel, where we met the rest of our group. Everyone introduced themselves over a warm dinner. There was Zeeba, an experienced mountaineer who spoke with enthusiasm whenever someone brought up peaks or mountains. Dhruv, who had a great energy and seemed to be in his mid-20s. Natasha and Kinjal, who were both joyous and chatty. There was also Vivek, who sadly couldn’t attend that night due to a fever. I also met Anaaya, who was the only one my age. There were also Sumit and Indrani, who were the most curious to learn ice/rock climbing.
The next morning, we awoke to snowfall. I stepped out to a world blanketed in white, the cold sharp at less than -15°C. Our group headed to a climbing site just outside the city, surrounded by stark, rocky cliffs and valleys. The Adventure Pulse instructors greeted us and started with the basics. We were taught how to wear our harnesses, the function of carabiners, how to tie a figure-of-eight knot, and the fundamentals of belaying.
Diving into the Sport of Climbing
There were two climbing walls – a longer, less steep one and a shorter, steeper one. I tackled both, learning how to trust my gear and my belayer. It was immensely fun. The view of Stok Kangri in the background also made the experience 10x better.
The next day was clearer and sunnier. Though still well below freezing, the blue sky made everything seem brighter and more optimistic. We learned how to jumar – ascending a rope using a mechanical device called a Jumar. It required quite some trust in yourself. Later in the day, a few of us, including me, attempted a third wall – a vertical stretch of rock that looked pretty intimidating. It was much steeper than the others and proved to be a bit of a challenge for me, but I managed to finish it twice.
That evening, Anaaya, Vineeth, Vivek (now feeling a bit better), and I explored Leh Market again. Even though many shops were shut, we walked around, distracting ourselves from the cold by chatting non-stop.
Ice Climbing Along the Chadar River
The next day was something completely new: ice climbing. We drove along the Chadar River, half-frozen in great glistening sheets. The road twisted alongside cliffs, and we eventually reached our destination. It was a decently remote area next to the road, two minutes from our main destination – A frozen waterfall. We geared up with crampons, jumars, harnesses, carabiners, and helmets and walked ten minutes across the icy riverbed to the base of the waterfall.
It was a majestic frozen waterfall, the water solidified into thick layers of ice and delicate icicles. It looked almost frothy, as if the waterfall was frozen mid-flow.
Ice climbing was difficult. I struggled at first with the technique, not quite getting how to kick the crampons in with enough force and precision, but the instructors were patient, and eventually I got better. Learning how to conquer that frozen wall made for an intense but exhilarating day.
Discovering the Culture of Ladakh
On Republic Day, we took a break from climbing. That morning, we attended a huge parade in Leh, filled with locals, soldiers, and, of course, politicians.
Later, we went to Naas Cafe in Leh Market, had a quick hot chocolate, and then went and watched the Khelo India ice skating tournament. The cold seeped through my numerous jackets, but the energy of the locals was just enough to keep us warm. I tried Thenthuk for lunch, a Ladakhi soup full of vegetables and noodles.
That evening, we went to an ice hockey match between the local Leh team and the Indian Army team. The crowd roared with each goal, and the game was fast-paced and thrilling.
We even visited Thiksey Monastery. Nestled against a hill, the monastery was a quiet, sacred space. It looked huge from the bottom, looking like a jumble of red and yellow painted houses.
We climbed to the top, through the beautiful and brightly painted archways and buildings, and sat before a large Buddha statue, meditating.
As we went back outside, the sun started setting, turning the sky pink and gold and giving me the greatest view yet.
At dinner, we ran into a few of the ice hockey players and took a quick selfie with them.
Jewels of the Night Sky in Leh
That night, I stepped outside briefly. I had just gone out to pass time, but when I looked up, I was dumbfounded. The sky in Leh in winter is like a dome of diamonds, glistening and bewitching. I saw Mars, Venus, Jupiter, and Saturn – all lined up in what’s called the “parade of planets.” I also spotted Orion’s belt and the full constellation clearly.
Last Climbing Session – A Winter to Remember!
On our final day of climbing, we went to a different frozen waterfall, still near the Chadar. It was colder than ever, but the sun soon lit up the valley. We climbed again using our jumars, but also learned how to use ice axes.
On our way back, we stopped at Magnetic Hill and Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, where we were served warm prasad and chai.
Back in Leh, I treated myself to a brownie at a bakery in the Market before picking out shawls for my grandmothers. I packed my bags that night, thinking about the experience I’d just had. I’d learned new skills, battled the cold, and found a newfound love for the mountains.
The next day we said our goodbyes and boarded our flights, leaving each other and the amazing town of Leh. Before leaving I looked back through the small window of the airplane, knowing I’d return to this awe-inspiring place.
Author:
This blog was written by 14 year old Shaan Shah during his summer internship at Adventure Pulse and is his account of Adventure Pulse’s Winter Climbing Workshop which he was a part of in early January 2025. You can also follow Shaan on his personal substack!