UT Kangri II (6,030m) – Overview

Rising proudly in the eastern flank of the Stok Range, UT Kangri II offers a compact yet powerful introduction to Himalayan climbing in Ladakh. At 6,030 meters, this peak, alongside its slightly taller twin, UT Kangri I (6,070m), is one of the newest and most accessible 6000ers in the region. It combines Ladakh’s stark high-altitude beauty with a genuine summit challenge, all within a concise 10-day itinerary.

Starting from Rumtse (4,200m), the route passes through vast, ochre valleys and nomadic grazing grounds before reaching Base Camp at approximately 5,100m. The climb unfolds across rocky moraines, gentle glacier sections, and steeper snow slopes leading to a sharply defined summit ridge. The effort is rewarded with a sweeping panorama of Stok Kangri, Kang Yatse, Nun Kun, Saltoro Kangri, and the endless brown waves of the Zanskar and Karakoram ranges.

Short, scenic, and serious enough to earn its altitude stripes, UT Kangri II is the perfect expedition for trekkers looking to transition into mountaineering OR for seasoned hikers seeking a rewarding high-altitude objective in under two weeks.

Why Climb UT Kangri II?

• Perfect First 6000er in Ladakh
  With straightforward terrain and a relatively short approach, UT Kangri II is an ideal entry into Himalayan mountaineering. It demands fitness and acclimatization, but not advanced technical climbing experience.

• Compact Yet Challenging Expedition
  Unlike longer Himalayan climbs that stretch 18–20 days, UT Kangri II condenses the high-altitude experience into just 10 days. Every day brings new landscapes, from wind-carved valleys to glacier fields culminating in a high alpine ascent.

• Exceptional Views Across the Great Ranges
  From the summit, climbers witness a rare 360° view: the towering Stok Kangri massif, the rugged Karakoram to the north, and the sprawling Zanskar range to the south. On a clear morning, the light on the arid Ladakhi plateaus is pure magic.

• Accessible from Leh
  The expedition begins just a few hours’ drive from Leh, minimizing logistics and maximizing climbing time. The Rumtse route remains less frequented, offering a sense of solitude and immersion in Ladakh’s raw, high-altitude wilderness.

Best Season to Climb UT Kangri II

• July to September (Summer / Post-Monsoon)
  This is the optimal window for climbing in Ladakh. The region lies in a rain-shadow zone, ensuring dry conditions and clear skies. Temperatures are moderate during the day but drop sharply at night, especially at Base Camp and higher elevations.

Early mornings on summit day can see temperatures between –10°C to –15°C, with daytime highs around 10°C to 15°C in the lower camps.

Route Highlights of the UT Kangri II Expedition

• Rumtse (4,200m) – The adventure begins here, a high-altitude settlement on the Leh–Manali highway. This small hamlet set against stark desert landscape marks your entry into Ladakh’s trans-Himalayan terrain.

• Interim Camp (4,900m) – A gentle acclimatization day with gradual altitude gain beginning at the road-head of Rumtse Phu. You’ll pass through undulating valleys dotted with wildflowers and nomadic yak herders’ camps.

• Base Camp (5,100m) – Set in an open amphitheater surrounded by barren peaks and glaciers, Base Camp becomes the staging ground for acclimatization and gear practice.
• Summit Day (6,030m) – The pre-dawn climb begins across rocky moraine and frozen glacier sections before tackling a final steep slope (50–60°). After 7–8 hours of steady climbing, the summit opens up to one of Ladakh’s most stunning panoramas. The descent takes 3–4 hours back to Base Camp.

Who is this Climb Ideal For?

• Trekkers who’ve previously completed high-altitude trekking routes (like Stok Kangri, Markha Valley, or Everest Base Camp) and want to take the next step.
• Climbers seeking a quick yet genuine Himalayan expedition that doesn’t demand extensive technical expertise.
• Anyone with good physical fitness, mental endurance, and a taste for adventure in raw, high-mountain environments.

Accommodation & Support

The expedition blends trekking-style camping with full expedition support. You’ll stay in hotels in Leh and in high-quality tents during the trek and climb. Adventure Pulse provides nutritious meals, experienced guides, high-altitude porters, and all mountaineering equipment for the expedition phase.

Final Thoughts

UT Kangri II is a compact, high-reward climb that delivers the essence of Himalayan mountaineering: altitude, challenge, and breathtaking beauty, without the long haul of traditional expeditions. For trekkers ready to test themselves at 6,000 meters, this peak offers the perfect blend of adventure and accessibility.

Take your next step into the world of mountaineering with UT Kangri II – Ladakh’s rising star in the realm of 6000ers.