Overview

Trekking in Nepal is on every adventurer’s bucket list, and it was on mine too. The country offers a wide variety of trekking and mountaineering opportunities nestled in its vast landscape. Some of the most popular treks, like the Everest Base Camp trek, are famous worldwide and draw thousands of trekkers each year. At the same time, offbeat treks in Nepal, such as the Manaslu Circuit, Annapurna Circuit, and Langtang Valley, have also gained popularity. In 2022, I started my trekking journey in Nepal and my first trek was to Everest Base Camp. this was truly an experience that stays with me as a cherished memory.

The journey to Everest Base Camp

Before Everest Base Camp trek, I had done only one high-altitude trek—the Great Lakes Trek in Kashmir. I was honestly a little concerned about this trek because of its long duration. Trekking at high altitude is one challenge, but trekking continuously for 11 days is another.
Our journey began in Kathmandu, followed by a flight to Lukla village. This flight turned into an adventure as we were stuck in Kathmandu for three days due to cloud cover in Lukla. (The story of how we finally got to Lukla and began trekking is a blog for another time!)

Once we reached Lukla, we trekked for the next 8 days until we finally reached Everest Base Camp – the highlight of our journey! The journey from Lukla to Everest Base Camp is breathtaking. Every day, we gained altitude, and the terrain and temperature changed drastically.

We passed lush forests and the Dudh Kosi river, trekked through Phakding and Namche, and entered a cold desert as we reached Dingboche and Lobuche. This trek offers a bit of everything. Alpine glacial water bodies, thick vegetation, beautiful views of mammoths and also an insight into Nepalese hospitality.

During the day, the temperature is usually warm when the sun is out. But as we neared our tea house each evening, the temperature would drop. One of my favorite memories was staying in the warm, cozy tea houses. They provided shelter and made me appreciate the local communities and their hospitality.

Gorakhshep – The gateway– to Base Camp & Kala Patthar

Our last tea house stop was in a small village called Gorakhshep. Gorakhshep is more of a small habitat than a village, and it is basic compared to other places in the valley. But considering its location at 5100 meters, it’s impressive how the tea houses function at such high altitudes.
Having access to accommodation, warm food, bottled water, washrooms, Wi-Fi, and more at this height is remarkable.

Gorakhshep is the gateway to both Everest Base Camp and the Kala Patthar summit. From Gorakhshep the Base Camp is merely 3 kilometers away. However dont underestimate this distance. A 3 km walk above 5000 meters, truly tests your patience and mental strength. The walk from Gorakhshep to Base Camp is pretty flat in most sections, except some boulders and one or two small ascents and descent on the way. But the altitude and existing fatigue in the body makes it a challenging affair.

On the other hand, the Kala Patthar hike is on the opposite side of the Base camp trail. Gorakhshep is the mid-point. To go to Kala Patthar, one has to return to Gorkahshep and start the journey all the way from the base itself.

Hike to Kala Patthar

You can hike to the Kala Patthar summit in two ways: as an early morning sunrise hike or a sunset hike. Most trekkers finish the Everest Base Camp trek and then head to Kala Patthar early the next morning.
Teams usually start around 3 a.m. from their tea house. They aim to reach the top in 2.5 to 3 hours to catch the golden sunrise glow on Mount Everest. After reaching the summit and soaking in the sunrise, they descend to Gorakhshep for breakfast and then head back down to Pheriche.

Alternatively, some trekkers do the Kala Patthar hike as a sunset hike. Though rare, some teams hike to Kala Patthar to see the sunset over Mount Everest. To make this possible, you must reach Gorakhshep by 1 p.m. If you finish the Base Camp trek by then, you can start your hike around 3:30 p.m. and reach the summit around 6 to 6:30 p.m. This timing gives you a chance to witness a beautiful sunset over Everest.
Our team finished the Base Camp trek on time. We were all in high spirits, and after enjoying an amazing Dal-Bhaat Tarkari for lunch, we set out to climb another hill.
Choosing the sunset hike to Kala Patthar was one of the best decisions we made. It was challenging, but the views were beyond words. Personally, I had never seen anything so beautiful. Watching Mount Everest and Nuptse bathed in the golden glow of sunset is a memory I will cherish forever.

Trail – Time – Temperature

We set out for the Everest Base Camp trek in October 2022. Since it was the season for snow, we expected colder temperatures and prepared accordingly.

Kala Patthar is a hike that requires significant ascent. The trail has flat sections, but you mostly walk on an incline, which proved challenging due to the snow. The fresh snow made the ground slippery, forcing us to move slowly and with caution. Our feet kept getting stuck in snow pits, which made it difficult to gain speed on the hike.

It took us nearly 2 to 3 hours to reach the summit of Kala Patthar, and the temperature didn’t make it any easier. Since we were hiking at sunset, the temperature dropped to as low as minus 10 degrees. Walking in such cold temperatures prevented our bodies from warming up properly, which added to the difficulty.

However, the reward of reaching the summit made it all worth it. The sunset views over Mount Everest and Nuptse took my breath away. It remains one of my fondest memories from the adventure—without a doubt, the highlight of my journey.

The golden light illuminating the mountains and the blanket of pitch-white snow around us made it feel as though we were standing in the clouds. As the sun set, the moonlight began to take over, offering another breathtaking sight.

Descent to Gorakhshep

We reached the summit of Kala Patthar and soaked in to its magnificent sight for about half an hour. It was then time for us to descend because it had started getting darker. The moonlight and our torches were the only source of light we had to find our way back.

Thanks to the team we were never worried about how we’d get back down because we had ample support. But given the snow and the slippery descend, it was necessary for us to put safety first and descend before it gets too cold.

We head back down from the summit around 6 pm and it took us a good 1.5 hours to slowly get our way back to the tea house in Gorakhshep. The descent was shorter simply because we dint have to worry about climbing up and exhausting ourselves. However, it was tricky to navigate given the snow.

Challenges of Kala Patthar

Situated at an altitude of 5545 meters, Kala Patthar gives you the prettiest views of Mount Everest on the Everest Base Camp trek. But these views come with their set of challenges.

• The altitude of 5500+ meters can be very demanding and even smaller steps can feel a lot.
• Trekking in the temperature of -10 to -15 degrees doesn’t allow your body to warm up enough, making the cold a challenge.
• The ascent on kala Patthar can be very exhausting especially if you have been trekking for 11 days continuously.
• For Sunrise views – one has to wake up really early. Lack of rest can make the journey arduous. At the same time for the sunset views, one has to then be prepared for trekking down in the dark, that also adds to the adventure.

After Thoughts

The hike to Kala Patthar was an introspective journey for me. It was not just a physical challenge, but an emotional one too. The hike tests your perseverance, patience, and mental strength. As I stood on the summit, gazing at the majestic Mount Everest bathed in golden light, I felt a profound sense of accomplishment. The sheer beauty of the mountains, the vastness of the landscape, and the quiet stillness of the moment made me realize how small we are in the grand scheme of things.

Kala Patthar, in all its difficulty, is a reminder that the most worthwhile experiences often require the most effort. It’s not just about reaching the top, but about embracing the journey—learning about yourself, your limits, and the resilience you didn’t know you had.

Looking back, the trek to Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar is more than just an adventure. It’s a story of self-discovery, and the push beyond my comfort zone.

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