Introduction

Aconcagua, standing at a formidable 6,961 meters (22,838 feet), is the highest peak outside of Asia and a dream for mountaineers worldwide. While the Normal Route is non-technical, the climb demands exceptional physical endurance, meticulous acclimatization, and unwavering mental fortitude. One of the best strategies for acclimatization on this route includes an ascent of Bonete Peak (5,005 meters), a smaller neighboring summit that allows climbers to experience high altitude before their final push toward the summit.

In December 2024, Sauraj and I embarked on yet another incredible adventure—this time to climb the highest peak of the Americas. The thought of venturing into the Central Andes was exhilarating, but even more thrilling was the opportunity to explore South America, a continent neither of us had previously visited.

The Journey Begins: Reaching Mendoza, Argentina

Planning the logistics for this expedition was no easy feat. Mendoza, Argentina, serves as the gateway to Aconcagua, and figuring out how to get there was the first challenge. After much research, we settled on Ethiopian Airlines, with a long-haul route from Mumbai to Addis Ababa, then onwards to São Paulo in Brazil, and finally to Buenos Aires, Argentina. The longest leg of the journey—a grueling 16-hour flight from Addis Ababa to São Paulo—was my biggest concern. Would I be able to endure such a prolonged stretch in the air? As it turned out, the flight was far more comfortable than I had anticipated, complete with excellent in-flight entertainment and surprisingly delicious food.

We landed in Mendoza on December 5th, exhausted but eager. Upon arrival, we were greeted at the airport and taken straight to our hotel—the NH Hotel, a comfortable and well-equipped base for the expedition’s final preparations. However, before we could even check in, we were ushered into a conference room for a detailed orientation and gear check. This marked Day One of our expedition.

Our guide, Ruben, was introduced to us—a veteran mountain guide with over a decade of experience on Aconcagua. Alongside him, we met Masaki Ikida from Japan, our fellow climber who would be joining us on this expedition. During the briefing, I felt the first real wave of jet lag wash over me. My head felt heavy, my limbs sluggish. Concentrating on the details of the briefing took every ounce of willpower. Later, when I spoke to Sauraj, he admitted to feeling the same exhaustion.

The Drive into the Andes

The next day, we left Mendoza and began our journey into the heart of the Andes. The drive followed the scenic highway that connects Mendoza to Santiago, Chile, winding through dry, arid valleys with towering peaks looming in the distance. By late afternoon, we arrived at Puente del Inca, a historic site and small settlement at 2,720 meters. The landscape was unlike anything we had ever seen—vast, rugged, and eerily reminiscent of Ladakh in northern India. The only trees visible were clusters of slender poplars, their golden leaves rustling in the wind.

As the sun began to set, we were taken aback by how abruptly the temperature dropped. The once-warm afternoon air gave way to a bone-chilling cold, plummeting to single digits in a matter of minutes. That night, we stayed in military barracks, which provided much-needed shelter from the elements.

Trekking to Confluencia (3,390m)

Day Three marked the start of our trek. After completing park entrance formalities, we began hiking through the Horcones Valley, the first leg of our journey towards Confluencia Camp (3,390m). The landscape was surreal—sweeping valleys with jagged ridges flanking either side, dry riverbeds cutting through the terrain, and the imposing shadow of Aconcagua looming in the distance.

On arrival at Confluencia, we were greeted with an unexpected level of comfort. Unlike most high-altitude camps, this one had walk-in dining tents equipped with electricity and Wi-Fi, gourmet food, and even an outdoor gazebo for lounging. Western-style toilets with flowing water and proper washbasins were a welcome surprise. For accommodation, we were assigned V12 dome-shaped North Face tents, which I shared with Sauraj.

Acclimatization Hike to Plaza Francia (4,000m)

The next morning, Day Four, we set off for an acclimatization hike to Plaza Francia (4,000m), the viewpoint for Aconcagua’s daunting South Face. This climb gave us our first true taste of the mountain’s extreme and unpredictable weather.

As we ascended, the sun burned fiercely overhead, but the wind was relentless. It howled through the valley, bringing with it a wind chill so severe that despite the sunshine, temperatures felt dangerously cold. By the time we reached Plaza Francia, we were forced to huddle behind large boulders to escape the gale-force winds. Even eating our packed lunch became a challenge—sandwiches and wrappers threatened to fly out of our hands.

Descending back to Confluencia proved equally demanding. My mild ear infection combined with lingering jet lag made the journey back exhausting. By the time we returned to camp, we were all severely dehydrated and drained.

The Long Trek to Plaza de Mulas (4,260m)

On Day Five, we packed our bags and prepared for the long trek to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp (4,260m). Mules carried our heavier loads, allowing us to focus on the arduous 10-hour hike ahead.

The trail followed the Horcones Superior River, before rising onto a lateral moraine next to the Horcones Glacier. The once lush valleys of lower elevations gave way to stark, desolate terrain—an arid wasteland of rock and dust. The two greatest challenges of the day were the wind and the sun. The wind roared down the valley, kicking up dust that coated our clothes and stung our eyes. Meanwhile, the high-altitude sun was merciless, its intensity amplified by the thin atmosphere. Any exposed skin was at immediate risk of sunburn.

Despite these hardships, the camaraderie between the three of us—Sauraj, Masaki, and myself—kept spirits high. We also met Ariel, a staff member moving up to the higher camps for the season, who joined our trek, sharing stories along the way.

Reaching Plaza de Mulas was a moment of triumph. As we entered camp, the sheer magnitude of Aconcagua towering above us was awe-inspiring. The Base Camp itself was remarkably well-equipped, featuring:

• A dining tent with electricity and charging stations
• A large dome-shaped lounge tent for relaxation
• An open gazebo with breathtaking mountain views
• Western-style toilet facilities and even a rare luxury—shower tents

That night, despite the altitude, I had my first truly restful sleep since arriving.

Day Six was more than just a pause in the expedition—

It was a crucial checkpoint in our journey, allowing our bodies to catch up with the relentless demands of high-altitude trekking. The air at this elevation was noticeably thinner, and every movement, no matter how small, required more effort than it would at sea level. This day of rest was carefully built into our itinerary, not as a luxury, but as a necessity for survival and success. It gave us the time to let our bodies adapt to the altitude, reducing the risk of altitude sickness and ensuring that we were strong enough to push forward in the coming days.

The camp itself became our temporary sanctuary. Some of us took the opportunity to explore the surroundings, familiarizing ourselves with the icy ridges that loomed in the distance. Others focused on self-care—doing laundry, organizing gear, and, if the weather permitted, indulging in the rare luxury of a shower. I chose to spend part of the day in the lounge tent, stretching out my tired muscles, letting my body fully absorb the benefits of the acclimatization process. Shielded from the biting wind, it was the perfect place to regain some sense of comfort and normalcy.

By the evening of Day Six, the difference was undeniable. The headaches that some had experienced earlier in the climb had faded, and there was a newfound lightness in our steps. Our lungs, though still working harder than usual, had adjusted to the reduced oxygen levels. The rest day had served its purpose—we were stronger, more resilient, and ready to take on the challenges that lay ahead.

The Road Ahead: Pushing for Aconcagua’s Summit

With our acclimatization complete, the next phase of the expedition was the final push toward Aconcagua’s summit. The journey so far had tested us with high-altitude exposure, unpredictable weather, and physical endurance, but driven with the purpose of raising Adventure Pulse’s banner on the summit, we felt confident in our chances of success.

Final Thoughts

With our bodies acclimatized and spirits high, we were now ready to take on the greater challenge ahead—our ascent of Bonete Peak (5,005m), a crucial step in our preparation for Aconcagua’s summit. Little did we know, the true test of endurance was yet to come.

Climbing Aconcagua via the Normal Route is an unforgettable experience. It challenges climbers physically and mentally while rewarding them with some of the most spectacular views in the world. If you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, consider climbing Aconcagua with Adventure Pulse—an expedition that pushes your limits and takes you to the highest peak in the Americas.

Stay tuned for Part 2, where we tackle Bonete Peak and continue our climb towards the Roof of the Americas!