Introduction

Nepal, the hub of adventurers invites enthusiasts from all over the World for various experiences. While some may visit Nepal for its National Parks and safaris, others explore its fascinating treks. Nepal is home to various numbers of trails in different valleys in the Khumbu as well as the Annapurna Region.

Due to which not only trekking enthusiasts but also climbers are drawn to the country’s varied expeditions. Various climbers visit Nepal every year, in thousands of numbers to climb some of the most notable and challenging mountains. Nepal not only offers deadly expeditions to Mount Everest, Amadablam and other mammoths but also embraces beginners to expeditions to Island Peak, Lobuche Peak and Mera to name a few.

Overview of Mera Peak

Mera Peak falls in the Mahalangur section, Barun sub section of the Himalayas. It is a prominent 6400 + meters peak in Nepal that falls under the authority of the Sagarmatha National Park for administrative purposes. Standing at a staggering altitude of 6476 meters above sea level, Mera Peak is considered as the tallest trekking peak in Nepal.

The standard route of the Peak is from the north side which involves carefully walking over the glacier. The south and west faces of Mera Peak are in fact very technical and can be climbed only by experienced climbers. Mera Peak provides a 360 Degrees Panoramic view of 8000 meter mammoths like Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, Makalu among others.

Mera Peak is part of the Everest region and takes you deep into the Hinku valley of the region. The start point of the journey starts from Lukla itself, which is similar for Everest Base Camp Trek and also the Lobuche Peak climbing Expedition. From Lukla the Mera Peak trekking route continues going towards Pangkongma, fowollowing the trail all the way towards the alpine desert of Khare. The Base camp of the Peak is right after Khare situated at an altitude of 5350 meters above sea level.

Before hitting the summit, we also have one more camp in between which is the high Camp of the Peak at an altitude of 5800 meters. The Peak is thus approached in three legs, the trek from Lukla all the way to Khare and the Base Camp, the second leg is the Base to the High Camp and the third leg is the High camp to the summit and back to the village of Khare.

Climb Facts

• Max Elevation : 6476 Meters | 21,246 feet
• Total Duration: 21 Days
• Trekking Days:  Days
• Training Days: 1 Day
• Climbing Days: 1 Day
• Buffer Days: 1 Day
• Level: Difficult

Accessibility of Mera Peak

The start of the Mera Peak expedition is a very easily accessible. The journey originates in Kathmandu from the district of Thamel, which is often referred to as a paradise for adventure enthusiasts.

From Kathmandu you drive to the Ramechaap airport for an early morning flight to Lukla. This small village of Lukla is the start point of your trekking journey.

Located in the Everest region, the expedition to Mera peak takes you into the Hinku valley, which is secluded and far less crowded compared to the Khumbu and the Annapurna valleys.

From Lukla you continue trekking for about the next 8 days until you reach the Base Camp of Mera Peak. From the Base you make way to the next camp which is also called the High camp and spend a night there. Finally from High camp team gradually make their way to the summit of the Peak at 6476 meters.

Post the summit celebration, teams head down back to Khare and continue to trek down to Khole, Tulli Kharka and Chuthanka over 3 to 4 days of trekking, before reaching Lukla again. The foot journey concludes in Lukla from where trekkers fly back to Ramechaap and then drive to civilisation in Kathmandu.

Itinerary Overview

• Day 1 – Arrival in Kathmandu and Transfer to Hotel in Kathmandu
• Day 2 – Rest and briefing day in Kathmandu
• Day 3 – Kathmandu to Lukla (by air) then to Puiyan (2800m)
• Day 4 – Puiyan to Pangkongma (2850m)
• Day 5 – Pangkongma to Ning so (2745m)
• Day 6 – Ning so to Chetra Khola (3000m)
• Day 7 – Chetra Khola to Khote (3550 m)
• Day 8 – Khote to Tangnag (4360 m)
• Day 9 – Acclimatisation day in Tangnag (4360m)
• Day 10 – Tangnag to Khare (5100 m)
• Day 11 – Khare to Mera La (5413m) then Mera base camp (5300m)
• Day 12 – Rest & glacier training at Mera Base Camp
• Day 13 – Mera High Camp (5800 m)
• Day 14 – Mera Peak summit (6476m)
• Day 15 – Additional summit day
• Day 16 – Khare to Khote (3550 m)
• Day 17 – Khote to Tulli Kharka (4200m)
• Day 18 – Tulli Kharka – Zetra La (4610m) to Chuthanka
• Day 19 – Chuthanka to Lukla
• Day 20 – Lukla to Kathmandu.
• Day 21 – Departure from Kathmandu.

Best Season to Climb

The best seasons to climb Mera Peak are March to May and October to November, as these coincide with the peak trekking season in the Everest region. These months specifically offer favorable weather conditions making the climb much more manageable.

However, climbing in winter (December to February) is also becoming more popular, although the cold temperatures, high winds, and unstable weather make it more challenging. Therefore, climbers with less experience are recommended to attempt Mera Peak during the prime seasons for better chances of a successful climb and also reduces associated dangers of the adventure.

Temperatures and Expected Weather

In Kathmandu and Ramechaap, temperatures range from 20-25°C during the day. As climbers ascend to higher altitudes, the temperatures drop. From Lukla and onwards in the higher regions, daytime temperatures hover around 8-10°C, and nights can become chilly with temperatures dropping to 5-12°C (sometimes as low as 4 to 8°C in strong winds). The temperature further lowers in Pangkongma and continues to go lower all the way as you navigate to the Base camp and are usually between 0 to -5 Degree Celsius.

At Lobuche Peak Base Camp (5350 meters), daytime temperatures are between 0-5°C, and nighttime temperatures range from -5 to -10°C. The Mera Peak High Camp is at aproximately 5800 meters. Temperature on the High camp is lower than the Base Camp, ranging anywhere between -5 to -20 degrees between the day and nights respectively.

On the summit at 6474 meters, climbers can expect daytime temperatures between  -10°C to -15 Celsius and as low as -30°C at night due to high winds and wind chill. Thus, climbers should be prepared for extreme cold during their summit attempt.

Terrain

The trail leading to Mera Peak offers a variety of terrain, starting with lush forests and gradually transitioning to rocky and barren landscapes. From Lukla, the route follows multiple smaller and distant villages towards Pangkongma, Tangnag, Khare and then the Mera Peak Base Camp. As you continue walking ahead, the climb becomes steeper, and as climbers officially enter the arid zone, with no vegetation around.

In Khare even shrubs and ferns are nowhere to be seen and the region becomes a cold desert. At Mera Peak Base Camp, the terrain becomes more rugged and rocky and there can be snow depending on the weather at the time.

Finally, the last stretch involves navigating snowy surfaces and ice-covered sections, requiring the use of ropes and other climbing gear. Some sections may involve traversing steep, snowy slopes and crevasses, making the climb challenging but rewarding. From the Base camp of Mera Peak towards the High camp at 5800 meters, climbers navigate through snow, ice cracks and crevasses which needs cautious stepping and team effort.

Communication Channels on the Climb

While there is internet access in most tea houses along the trekking route, it is often slow and unreliable due to weather conditions and limited bandwidth. Nevertheless, climbers can expect to pay anywhere from 500 to 1500 Nepali Rupees for a 24-hour internet connection. For better communication, many climbers buy a local SIM card in Thamel, which works in many areas of the trek.

At the Mera Peak Base Camp, High Camp and the summit there is no network and communication can happen only once you are back down towards the valley.

Can a First-Timer Attempt Mera Peak?

It is not recommended for novice climbers to attempt Mera Peak. This expedition requires climbers to have a solid understanding of climbing equipment and techniques. Moreover, the steep ascent and descent require sufficient experience in navigating challenging terrains.

Given the altitude exceeds 6400 meters and the extreme temperatures, beginners should reconsider attempting this climb. To build the necessary experience and physical fitness, we recommend climbing other peaks in Nepal like, Island Peak, or Lobuche Peak. These climbs will help prepare you both physically and mentally for Mera Peak.

Standing at 6476 meters, Mera Peak is a tough nut to crack but it can be achievable for climbers who have trekked at higher altitudes, such as the Everest Base Camp trek and have some amount of climbing exposure, either through peaks or through Climbing workshops.

The trekking route going towards Mera Peak is well-trodden and offers gradual ascents that makes the trekking bit of it it less challenging than many other peaks in the Himalayas. Climbers do not need advanced technical skills but must be comfortable using climbing gear, including ropes, crampons, and ice axes, especially towards the High camp and the summit.

The climb towards the summit and then the descend all the way to Khara is physically demanding and can take 9 to 12 hours to complete. This  requires stamina and mental preparation for the long climb. Therefore, climbers must be able to handle the physical stress of altitude, fatigue, and extended hours of climbing.

Challenges on Mera Peak

Climbers attempting Mera Peak will face several challenges:

• Weather windows: Weather can change quickly, and high winds can delay or stop the summit attempt. Therefore, climbers need to monitor weather patterns and plan their summit push around good weather windows.
• Acclimatization: Acclimatization is essential to avoid Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Thus, climbers must follow a careful schedule with rest days to prevent AMS and ensure they are physically prepared for higher altitudes.
• Technical skills: The final climb requires basic mountaineering skills, such as using crampons, ice axes, and ropes. Climbers will need to be confident using these tools to navigate steeper, snow-covered sections.
• Fitness: Physical fitness is crucial for Mera Peak. The ascent is long and demanding, especially summit day. Climbers need strong cardiovascular endurance and the ability to push through fatigue at high altitudes.

Technicalities Involved

Mera Peak’s final climb to the summit as well the climb from Base Camp to High camp, require basic technical skills, including roping up for certain sections with crevasses and using climbing tools like crampons and ice axes for snow and ice. Although the peak is not as technical as other Himalayan summits, climbers still need to be proficient in using these tools to ensure safety.

What Equipment is Needed?

Climbers should bring standard trekking gear, including clothing for high-altitude conditions, as well as specialized climbing equipment. This includes gaiters, crampons, micro-spikes, climbing helmets, ice axes, and ropes. A full list of gear will be provided by the climbing operator.

Level of Physical and Mental Fitness Needed

Climbing Mera Peak is challenging and definitely not for the faint-hearted. The climb requires you to be in excellent physical and mental state.

Climbers need to build good levels of endurance and stamina to be able to summit this peak. Good endurance will especially come in handy during the summit push as the journey starts in the night and goes all the way up to the next afternoon, ranging anywhere between 10 to 12 hours, depending on the weather and the pace of the group. Good cardio vascular fitness along with muscular strength will make your journey possible and comfortable.

Especially for first time climbers, climbing Mera Peak can feel overwhelming. The transition from a trekker to a climber does not come easy and it is common for first timers to have a mental block. Not only the first timers, but also climbers with some experience can be mentally unprepared for the challenge. The high altitude, technical equipment, fatigue of the journey, rough terrain of the region, can all be factors that can overwhelm any individual and deter them from continuing the journey.

Prepping for Summit

During your expedition to Mera Peak, you will stay in tea houses throughout the journey, except at the Base Camp and High Camp. The Base Camp sits at 5350 meters, whereas the High camp at 5800 meters. At both these places, the necessary camping logisctics are made for a comfortable stay. Most operators also spend an extra day at the Base Camp, to help in acclimatizing and practice with climbing equipment. We introduce each climber to their climbing essentials, such as shoes, harnesses, crampons, micro spikes, carabineers, ropes, snow glasses, and helmets, teaching them how to use each item. Teams also  practice lining up, deciding the order of the rope line, coordinating with one another, and understanding each other’s pace. All queries raised by the climbers are addressed on this day, along with the practice, which prepares climbers both physically and mentally for summit day.

Chances of Fatality

The chances of fatality on Mera Peak are low, but proper preparation is essential. The most significant risks are related to weather, altitude sickness, and poor decision-making. Therefore, climbers should follow the guidance of experienced guides and respect safety protocols throughout the expedition.

Accommodation during the Expedition

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, you will spend your first day at a hotel in Thamel. From Day 2 onwards we enter the Hinku valley in the Everest region, and trek through Pangkongma, Ning so, chetra and other small villages.  Throughout the Trek, you’ll stay in tea houses, mountain lodges built for trekkers. These tea houses vary in size and are operated by local families who migrate to higher altitudes during trekking season. Rooms typically feature twin beds with mattresses, pillows, and blankets, and access to common bathrooms.

The tea houses also have fully functional kitchens that prepare fresh meals. The dining areas are equipped with tables, chairs, and a central Bukhari to keep you warm and cozy. The hospitality of the Nepali people enhances the entire trekking experience, making it unforgettable. At the Base Camp and High Camp of the Peak, we will be staying in a camping set up. With sleeping tents, toilet tents and the dining and kitchen tent, we set up camp for our stay before hitting the summit.

Meals Served

Tea houses along the trekking route provide a variety of meals, including dal bhat (a traditional Nepali dish), noodles, soups, and even international dishes like pizza and burgers. These meals are designed to provide the energy needed for the day’s trekking. At Mera Peak Base Camp and High Camp, there are no tea houses. Trekkers camp at the Base and High camp and sleep in tents. The kitchen and dining tents are also set up, and fresh meals are cooked for trekkers at the respective camping site.

Climbing with Adventure Pulse

Climbing with Adventure Pulse means you will experience a well-organized and safe journey. Our team of experienced and certified guides and porters will support you every step of the way. We prioritize your safety, comfort, and overall experience, ensuring that you receive all the necessary guidance and support throughout your climb.

Adventure Pulse specializes in providing top-notch climbing equipment and expert guidance, ensuring you have the right tools and knowledge to tackle the challenges of Mera Peak. Our skilled guides, some of whom have summited Mount Everest multiple times, are well-versed in high-altitude conditions. They will teach you the technical aspects of climbing, the acclimatization process, and how to properly use gear like crampons, ice axes, and ropes, all while prioritizing your safety.

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